Per un Barese DOC, nato nella “città vecchia”, San Nicola è la massima autorità.
San Nicola di Bari, proveniente da Myra, è uno dei Santi più amati e venerati in tutto il mondo.
Il culto di San Nicola unisce cittadini cattolici e ortodossi, l’Occidente e l’Oriente. Le reliquie del Santo, custodite nella Basilica di San Nicola a Bari, sono motivo di orgoglio per tutti i cittadini baresi: la vita, le opere e i miracoli di San Nicola sono impressi nella mente e caratterizzano, quasi giornalmente, la vita del popolo di Bari.
San Nicola, Patrono di Bari insieme a San Sabino e alla Madonna di Odegitria, non è solo un Santo nel senso classico del termine, ma, per Bari, la Sua ricorrenza è la festa per eccellenza: un tripudio di colori, giostre, cibi tipici e tradizionali da preparare e assaporare rigorosamente in quei giorni. Si parte dalla Festa del 6 dicembre, la solennità liturgica, nella Basilica: un Barese DOC non può mancare alla prima messa mattutina, seguita, poi, da un bel giro, denso di incontri e saluti, nella “città vecchia”, assaporando la cioccolata calda per potersi riscaldare.
Dal 7 al 9 maggio solenni celebrazioni religiose e numerose manifestazioni culturali per ricordare e rievocare la Traslazione di San Nicola, con un corteo storico, che riattualizza l’impresa dei marinai baresi che cambiarono lo stesso destino della loro città.
L’8 maggio la cerimonia suggestiva prende vita nelle viuzze di Bari Vecchia, contornata dall’abbraccio del mare.
Proprio sulle acque del mare, una volta che la statua varca il portale della chiesa andando incontro ai suoi pellegrini in una processione per le principali vie di Bari, per poi restare in attesa sul mare per tutti coloro che vogliono rendere omaggio al Santo: suggestiva e toccante la processione delle barche.
Il 9 maggio la solenne concelebrazione eucaristica per un momento di grande comunione ecclesiale con l’invocazione dello Spirito Santo ed il prodigio della Manna di San Nicola, che trasuda dalle ossa del Santo. Il Priore della Basilica, inginocchiandosi sotto l’Altare della Cripta, estrae la Manna dalla Tomba del Santo: il Miracolo si compie ogni anno, mentre il popolo intona preghiere e canti, invocando il Santo. Ogni barese, nel momento del bisogno, ricorre alla Sacra Manna, cospargendo il Santo liquido sulla parte del corpo malata, quasi un contatto con il Santo: un rituale spesso seguito dagli Anziani, con grande devozione.
L’ idea di trafugare le Sue spoglie venne ai baresi nel contesto di un programma di rilancio, dopo che la città, a causa della conquista normanna, aveva perduto il ruolo di residenza del Catapano e quindi di Capitale dell’Italia bizantina. In quei tempi la presenza in città delle reliquie di un Santo era importante non solo dal punto di vista spirituale ma anche mèta di pellegrinaggi e, quindi, fonte di benessere per l’indotto economico generato.
Nel 1087 una spedizione navale partita dalla città di Bari verso Myra, divenuta nel frattempo musulmana, si impadronì delle spoglie del Santo, che nel 1089 vennero definitivamente poste nella cripta della Basilica eretta in suo onore. Si usa il termine traslazione per indicare il trasferimento, da una sede ad un’altra, di un corpo, soprattutto di reliquie, e quindi anche per San Nicola si parla di traslazione delle sue ossa da Myra in Asia Minore a Bari.
All’inizio dell’anno mille, Nicola di Pàtara di Licia, vescovo di Myra, morto nel 326, era già molto famoso e venerato in tutto l’Oriente. Bari era un piccolo centro costiero che si trovava lungo la via percorsa sia dai pellegrini che da tutt’ Europa volevano raggiungere Gerusalemme sia da quelli che da Oriente volevano raggiungere Roma e Compostela. Bari era sede del governatore bizantino e anche di un monastero benedettino retto dall’Abate Elia. Quando già si respirava aria di crociate, l’Abate Elia pensò di erigere a Bari una chiesa per pellegrini e marinai, per renderla punto d’incontro tra Oriente e Occidente e, secondo Alcuni, suggerì, a 62 marinai il furto delle ossa di San Nicola. Era una consuetudine impossessarsi di Santi di altri Paesi. Così i marinai partirono, trafugarono una parte del corpo e, dopo una lunga navigazione, arrivarono e consegnarono le reliquie all’Abate Elia, che le custodì ed ebbe l’incarico di erigere la Basilica sul luogo dove sorgeva il palazzo del vecchio governatore greco (Catapano).
Nel 1095 fu consacrata la prima parte, la cripta, e tutta la chiesa nel 1197. L’Abate Elia non fu l’unico ad avere avuto questa idea: la ebbero anche i Veneziani e infatti l’altra parte del corpo di San Nicola è nella chiesa di San Nicoletto al Lido di Venezia. Ma le reliquie di San Nicola sono tante: se ne trovano anche a Rimini, a Saint-Nicolas-de-Port (Francia), a Bucarest, a Volos (Grecia). I baresi contesero a Venezia i resti di San Nicola andando a prenderli nella cattedrale di Myra, quando questa cadde in mano musulmana. Era il 1087 e le due Città, dirette concorrenti nei traffici marittimi, misero in mare le proprie navi. Giunse prima la spedizione barese di 62 marinai, che presero i frammenti ossei più grandi. In seguito, i Veneziani recuperarono i frammenti più piccoli e li portarono nella loro città.
Si dice che San Nicola sia “amante dei forestieri”, ma il vero Barese conosce tutti i Miracoli del Santo.
San Nicola, oggi, è Patrono di marinai, pescatori, farmacisti, profumieri, bottai, bambini, ragazze da marito, scolari, avvocati, prostitute, nonché delle vittime di errori giudiziari. E’ considerato, anche, il Protettore dei bambini, forse per il noto miracolo dei tre piccoli ragazzi che il Santo salvò dall’oste malvagio. Anche le tre palle raffigurate nelle immagini del Vescovo di Myra, sono in realtà tre sfere, simboli delle borse donate a tre ragazze, in procinto di essere prostituite, e salvate da quel provvidenziale intervento che, peraltro, pare sia autenticamente avvenuto: le borse contenevano i denari per la dote delle fanciulle.
Un episodio, storicamente documentato, è quello che vide il nostro Santo intervenire per far tornare in vita tre bambini innocenti. Secondo una prima versione, il fatto sarebbe accaduto mentre Nicola si recava al Concilio di Nicea. Fermatosi ad un’osteria, gli fu presentata una pietanza a base di pesce, almeno a quanto diceva l’oste. Nicola, divinamente ispirato, si accorse che si trattava invece di carne umana. Chiamato l’oste, espresse il desiderio di vedere come era conservato quel “pesce”. L’oste lo accompagnò presso due botticelle piene della carne salata di tre bambini, da lui uccisi. Nicola si fermò in preghiera ed ecco che le carni si ricomposero e i bambini saltarono allegramente fuori dalle botti.
La preghiera di Nicola spinse l’oste alla conversione, anche se in un primo momento questi aveva cercato di nascondere il suo misfatto. La seconda versione della leggenda non parla di bambini, ma di scolari. Un nobile di un villaggio presso Myra, dovendo mandare i figli ad Atene per continuare negli studi, disse loro di passare da Myra per ricevere la benedizione del Vescovo Nicola. Essendo questi assente, essi non poterono incontrarlo e, giunta la sera, cercarono una locanda. Vedendoli benestanti, l’oste entrò di notte nella loro camera e li uccise, prendendosi i preziosi vestiti. Non contento, mescolò le loro carni con altra carne salata, per darle agli avventori.
Il giorno dopo Nicola, divinamente avvertito, si recò dall’oste chiedendogli della carne. L’oste gli mostrò la carne conservata, aggiungendo che era buona da mangiare. Nicola attese sperando nella sua confessione, ma quello non diede segni di pentimento. Allora il Santo benedisse quelle carni e i tre scolari tornarono in vita. Con la sua preghiera e le sue esortazioni, finalmente l’oste si pentì e promise di condurre una vita virtuosa. I tre scolari, come risvegliandosi dal sonno, presero le loro cose e ripresero il viaggio per Atene.
L’episodio dei bambini, insieme all’episodio della dote alle fanciulle, fece sorgere la figura di Santa Claus (Babbo Natale), identificandolo nel “nostro” San Nicola.
Un altro miracolo
I generali liberati dalla prigione. Emuli del comportamento del Santo Vescovo, tre generali ripresero il mare e raggiunsero la Frigia, ove riuscirono a sottomettere le forze ribelli all’Impero. Il loro ritorno a Costantinopoli avvenne in un’atmosfera di vero e proprio trionfo. Tuttavia, la gloria e gli onori durarono poco, perché accompagnate da gelosie ed invidie. Gli agiografi parlano di malevoli suggerimenti del diavolo: certo è che, ben presto, si formò un partito avverso a Nepoziano, uomo di grande potere, e compagni.
I componenti di questo partito riuscirono a coinvolgere il potente prefetto Ablavio, il quale convinse l’Imperatore che i tre generali stavano complottando per rovesciarlo dal trono. Convinto o meno dell’attendibilità della notizia, Costantino preferì non correre rischi, e li fece mettere in prigione. Dopo alcuni mesi, i seguaci di Nepoziano si stavano organizzando per liberare i generali. I loro avversari, col denaro promesso a suo tempo, tornarono da Ablavio e lo convinsero a suggerire all’Imperatore un provvedimento più drastico. Infatti, Costantino diede ordine di sopprimerli quella notte stessa. Appresa la notizia, il carceriere Ilarione corse ad avvertire i generali, che furono presi da grande angoscia. Nepoziano chiese l’intervento in extremis del vescovo Nicola a favore dei tre innocenti. Il Signore esaudì la preghiera di Nepoziano: quella notte S. Nicola apparve in sogno all’Imperatore, minacciandolo. Nicola apparve minaccioso anche ad Ablavio, e, quando l’imperatore lo mandò a chiamare, entrambi pensarono ad un’opera di magia. Costantino, spaventato, ordinò, subito, la liberazione dei tre generali.
Secondo la tradizione, è ormai noto che, da anni, ragazze single o zitelle, a Bari comunemente chiamate ”vacantine”, il 6 dicembre, giorno di San Nicola, si recano in pellegrinaggio in Basilica per compiere i famosi ‘tre giri della colonna’. La cultura popolare racconta di numerose donne miracolate, ossia che molte donne abbiano, davvero, trovato marito grazie ai tre giri e all’intercessione di San Nicola. Oggi la colonna, sempre nella cripta della Basilica, è protetta da una gabbia di ferro per poterla preservare da scempi di ogni genere. Questo, però, non rappresenta un impedimento per le single che, decise nel loro intento, hanno trovato da quel momento, l’escamotage di scrivere dei bigliettini a San Nicola e infilarli dall’alto, in modo che potessero toccare la base della colonna e ricevere quel “tocco”, mix di magia e devozione.
Padre Gerardo Cioffari, il noto storico della Basilica barese, in uno scritto del maggio 2005, ricorda tre miracoli di San Nicola legati al mare. Il primo si riferisce a dei naviganti sorpresi da una tempesta e che invocano San Nicola, il quale appare improvvisamente, precipitandosi ad aiutarli, portandoli sicuri nel porto; il secondo miracolo avviene in tempo di carestia. San Nicola convinse alcuni capitani di navi che trasportavano grano da Alessandria a Costantinopoli, a lasciarne un po’ nel porto di Myra salvando così molte persone dalla fame. Ma le navi, al loro arrivo a Costantinopoli, dopo un controllo, recavano lo stesso quantitativo di grano caricato ad Alessandria. Il terzo miracolo avviene dopo la morte del Santo. La sua tomba diviene meta di pellegrinaggi per la devozione e per portare a casa la Santa Manna (myron).
Uno dei diavoli da lui scacciato quando abbatté il tempio di Artemide, vuole vendicarsi e così, sotto le sembianze di una devota vecchietta, consegna un vasetto d’olio ad un pellegrino, chiedendogli di ungerne le pareti della Chiesa di San Nicola. Durante la traversata Nicola convinse il pellegrino a gettare in acqua il vasetto d’olio malefico. E l’olio, appena toccata l’acqua, scatena una terribile tempesta con alte fiamme che lambiscono la nave. Invocato dai naviganti, il Santo appare e calma la tempesta, liberandoli dal diabolico maleficio.
Forse anche Bari è stata sede di un miracolo di San Nicola. Infatti, l’8 maggio 2003, alcune imbarcazioni che assistevano alla tradizionale processione a mare, furono colpite, per un incidente, dagli spari dei fuochi pirotecnici e si capovolsero, facendo cadere i pellegrini in mare. Ci furono solo una trentina di feriti e nessuna vittima. L’immagine, che rappresenta l’evento, è sistemata su un palazzo di via Venezia, la strada che sovrasta la Muraglia nei pressi del Fortino.
Ma al di là di curiosità e leggende, sta di fatto che Bari, nella sua triplice dimensione di città ecumenica, europea e mediterranea, reca nella sua storia i tratti del sovrapporsi di molteplici civiltà e culture identificando il suo destino in quello di San Nicola, che ha illuminato il cuore di milioni di fedeli d’Oriente e d’Occidente, simbolo di pace e di riconciliazione fra gli uomini e segno di unità nella Chiesa.
La Città di Bari è legata sin dai tempi antichi al culto di San Nicola, considerato uno dei più potenti intercessori presso Dio. La devozione dei baresi per il Santo di Myra prescinde ogni genere di limite, estendendosi ad ogni livello sociale ed al tempo stesso ad ogni cittadino, che sia credente o meno.
Teresa Catalano – Delegata FAI Giovani per la Scuola
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