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Beppe Nugnes: vedi alla voce eleganza

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beppe nugnes

A Trani apre Palazzo Pugliese: lo spazio per le grandi firme. Un luogo storico e iconico, dove non si andrà solo per comprare un vestito. Ma per vivere un’esperienza. Parola di Beppe Nugnes.

Nel nuovo Palazzo Pugliese non imporrò la moda ai miei clienti, ma parlerò loro di moda.

Nel contesto di un Sud magico, dove arcaico e contemporaneo convivono, Nugnes apre le porte di Palazzo Pugliese, oasi ottocentesca dalle linee essenziali in pieno centro storico.

Varcata la soglia, come in un coup de théâtre, dentro va in scena il grande luna park della moda. Palazzo Pugliese evoca l’eclettismo caleidoscopico della visione di Nugnes, che nasce da una tradizione di alta sartoria e intercetta i trend, associando lo slancio internazionale e l’attitudine cosmopolita a una forte devozione alle radici. Global but local. Con una precisa missione: «La sfida è unire le tendenze in continuo mutamento col gusto per una qualità eccezionale e l’attitudine bespoke», dice Beppe Nugnes.

Lo stile per Nugnes nasce dall’incontro tra cultura e territorio: un immaginario fatto di luce, colore e materia. Così, dopo aver esplorato l’e-commerce, oggi nel ridare una nuova identità a questo palazzo, Nugnes lo trasforma in un contemporaneo atelier – con molti salotti e due terrazzi – per un’esperienza tra realtà fisica e narrazione. E rende omaggio alla net generation, tra mix & match, patchwork digitale e fluidità. L’allestimento è stato pensato per dare massimo risalto alle collezioni dei brand qui riuniti: un panorama che va dal new classic al contemporaneo, passando dal sul misura a pezzi iconici. Mentre specchi, pietra, affreschi e fregi entrano in dialogo con le diverse suggestioni della moda. More is more. Per il flâneur contemporaneo, abituato ad attraversare spazio e tempo in un click.

beppe nugnes

Beppe Nugnes, è segno di grande coraggio portare a termine un progetto del genere in un periodo come questo, cosa si prova?
Nella mia vita ho sempre teso ad alzare l’asticella, per fare questo ci vuole coraggio ma la forza maggiore viene dalla speranza nel futuro. Attingo anche molta energia dalla mia famiglia e dalle persone che mi sono accanto. Mia moglie Daniela ogni mattina mi ricorda il pizzico di follia che mi appartiene. Col passare degli anni ho compreso che questo modo di essere è una mia valvola di energia: non mi accontento, cerco il miglioramento continuo. Un tempo questa cosa la vivevo come un peso, ora mi entusiasma. Perché mi fa sentire un bambino che cerca di scoprire cose nuove. E in effetti è proprio dai più giovani da cui spesso traggo ispirazione…

In che modo?
Sono affascinato dal loro mondo, dalla loro energia e dalla loro incoscienza che osservo con attenzione. Mi piace rubare la loro stimolante curiosità nella scoperta del futuro.

Torniamo al progetto di questo nuovo spazio. Dica la verità, quando le è venuta questa idea, ha trovato facili consensi?
In realtà quest’idea mi accompagna da molti anni, era una visione che ho tenuto per me. Non sono mai andato alla ricerca di facili consensi, ma piuttosto ho cercato di far leggere agli altri il mio sogno.

Se non è un lavoro, cos’è per lei la moda?
È una fortuna che mi è capitata nella vita. Non so nemmeno se sarebbe stata la mia aspirazione finale se non fossi stato figlio di Franco Nugnes. Ad oggi la continua ricerca del bello e dell’eleganza, il quotidiano reinventarsi, la possibilità di sviluppare il mio network con relazioni personali e stimolanti, sono solo una parte dei doni che ho ricevuto dal mondo della moda.

Quando ha scoperto la passione per questo settore?
L’infanzia per me era giocare in sartoria. C’erano papà e lo zio Tonino (il mio secondo papà). Ed è stato proprio osservando il mondo della sartoria che ho imparato la cura del dettaglio, l’attenzione per il cliente e la bellezza dei colori e delle forme: da qui è nata la mia passione per questo mondo.

beppe nugnes

Quali valori l’hanno guidata in questi anni?
I valori altissimi quali la ricerca del bello e dell’eleganza, l’onestà commerciale, la ricerca continua della soddisfazione del cliente, che nasce dalla sartoria, dove il cliente non è visto come un numero ma ha una sua storia, una sua personalità. Tutto questo mi ha agevolato nello studio e nella comprensione degli altri e mi porta ad oggi a traferirlo costantemente al mio team.

Capitato in boutique. Da dove è partito?
I primi anni di formazione li ho fatti da assistente alle vendite. Mio padre aveva un concetto: non entri in azienda come “figlio di”, ma percorri tutta la strada, dal primo gradino fino all’ultimo. Ero piccolo e la cosa ovviamente mi faceva male, perché la gavetta è stata pesante, ma oggi grazie a questo sono riuscito ad arrivare fin qui.

beppe nugnes

La figura di suo padre quindi è stata importantissima. Se ci fosse ancora, cosa vorrebbe raccontargli?
Io ho sempre amato il modo di essere di mio padre: la sua innata eleganza non solo esteriore ma interiore. Il suo modo di porsi, il suo vivere, il suo stare in società. Vorrei che una parte di lui continuasse a vivere in questo nuovo spazio e riecheggiasse nell’attenzione al cliente e nella cura del dettaglio. Se fosse ancora qui, mi piacerebbe accogliere i nostri clienti insieme, con il suo fantastico sorriso.

Com’è cambiato invece nel tempo il vostro settore ed il vostro lavoro?
Le boutique negli anni ‘80-’90 erano un club, avevamo più tempo a disposizione per stare con i clienti, li conoscevamo tutti molto bene: non erano solo vendite ma relazioni di fiducia. Le persone ti affidavano non solo il loro guardaroba ma una parte importante della loro vita, e noi cercavamo di ripagare quella fiducia. Vorrei che la nostra azienda, seppur convertita in parte al digital, mantenesse al centro della sua vision sempre l’insostituibile rapporto con il cliente.

Qual è il compito di un retail oggi?
Oggi il retail nella sua multicanalità ha il compito di tradurre il costume nel sociale. Un brand non è solo un “Brand”: un brand porta con se e le sue collezioni, la sua cultura, il suo microcosmo, la sua personale interpretazione della società. A noi sta poi tradurre tutto questo alle diverse tipologie di clientela. Chanel disse una volta: “La moda non è qualcosa che esiste solo negli abiti. La moda è nel cielo, per la strada, ha a che fare con le idee, il modo in cui viviamo, quello che ci succede attorno”.

Come si è evoluta nel corso degli anni l’azienda?
Nel ’99 ho acquistato l’azienda di famiglia, è stata un scelta consapevole. Non nascondo di aver sentito, nei primi anni, tutto il peso di questo passaggio. Con il tempo però e con l’aiuto del mio fantastico team ho iniziato un percorso di naturale evoluzione: abbiamo ampliato le strutture dei nostri store, ci siamo affacciati al mercato estero e abbiamo consolidato il brand sul territorio. Ed oggi continuiamo insieme a progettare l’evoluzione della nostra azienda.

palazzo pugliese trani

Quindi è possibile avere nuovi sogni dopo aver aperto questo nuovo spazio?
Se guardo l’azienda tra dieci anni vedo una community di sognatori. Penso ad una specie di luna park, o meglio ancora, ad un laboratorio di sogni. In fondo la moda fa sognare.

Cosa aspira ad essere Palazzo Pugliese?
Guardi, mi viene in mente la differenza che ho provato visitando il Louvre e il Museo d’Orsay: il primo è un museo con grandi opere, certo, ma resta un museo. Il d’Orsay invece mi ha fatto sentire parte di un mondo da scoprire: ed è la stessa sensazione che vorrei si provasse una volta entrati a Palazzo Pugliese, perdersi nella bellezza in tutte le sue forme e ritrovarsi una volta usciti con gli occhi pieni di stupore, arricchiti da qualcosa.

Come valuta la vivibilità di Trani?
Trani per me è la più bella città del mondo (ride, ndr). Chiaramente è la città del mio cuore. Un giovane fuoriclasse non ancora consapevole di esserlo.
Il mio sogno è che in questa città si sviluppi quello che io chiamo “il pensiero del bello”, un pensiero programmato di sviluppo economico. Ho pensato a
Palazzo Pugliese, nella sua totalità, come fonte d’ispirazione per sogni e progetti che vanno in questa direzione.

Beppe, grazie per averci trasferito tutta questa energia. Ci dica la verità qual è il suo segreto?
Cercare di base il lato positivo sempre e comunque. Sono un inguaribile ottimista con la fortuna di avere una meravigliosa famiglia: mia moglie Daniela e i miei due figli Francesco e Davide ogni giorno mi donano la carica necessaria per affrontare nuove sfide.

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